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Buffalo Ridge: Community-owned and Luxurious? by Chris Thurman
This article first appeared on
www.mediaclubsouthafrica.com
on
24th January 2011 |
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For most high end leisure travellers to or in South Africa, the phrases “community-owned”
and “community-run” set red lights flashing and alarm bells ringing. It’s all very
well to make a brief township tour, brave the novelty of an overnight stay in a
rural B&B or browse through the quaint produce on offer at a craft market –
but if you want to travel in style, stay in luxury and enjoy the best of the best,
private commercial service providers are a safer bet.
That, at least, is the orthodox (albeit unspoken) wisdom in the tourism industry.
It speaks to various assumptions about what is meant by experiencing a country.
For people from developed countries travelling in the developing world, this leaves
two implicit options: either you can really interact with the citizens and try to
live as the locals do – which equates to “slumming it” – or you can enjoy your creature
comforts, in which case you’ll be prevented from engaging with their “authentic”
way of life.
In mixed economies such as South Africa’s, affluent internal tourists who want to
see other parts of their own country seem to face the same dilemma (one that is
further complicated by the country’s history of racial and cultural segregation).
Those with the means to travel from, say, Cape Town or Johannesburg and spend a
holiday in a game reserve are no more likely to have substantial contact with their
poorer compatriots than visitors from England, America, Germany or Japan.
While there is general consensus over the need to change structural inequalities
in South African society – “empowerment” and “upliftment” have become clichéd words
– attempts to restore both dignity and economic muscle to historically disenfranchised
communities have met with mixed success. Both state and private initiatives have
begun with great vision and vigour, only to stumble or wane within a few years.
Perhaps it’s not surprising, then, that describing an enterprise as community-owned
and community-run often results in raised eyebrows and dubious expressions – and
that it can be, to put it crudely, a turn-off for prospective customers.
There is a cure for such scepticism, however: it goes by the name of Buffalo Ridge.
Situated in the expansive Madikwe game reserve (three hours north-west of Johannesburg),
Buffalo Ridge is an exclusive lodge that can accommodate up to 16 guests. Each of
the eight chalets is beautifully appointed, and the main building commands a staggering
view over the Madikwe plains. The lodge boasts all of the perks one might expect
of a five star bush establishment: private game drives, plenty of good food and
wine, effusive warmth from the staff.
What makes Buffalo Ridge different from other five star lodges is that it is owned
entirely by the Balete people of Lekgophung (a settlement close to the South Africa-Botswana
border). In this it was the first of its kind, and although it is no longer unique,
it is still highly unusual. Buffalo Ridge is leased to and managed by the Madikwe
Collection, a portfolio of lodges spread across the 75000-hectare reserve. The founders
of the Madikwe Collection, Carl Trieloff and William Stephens, have demonstrated
both financial and ecological savvy in expanding the company.
Private investors and communal owners alike – in addition to Buffalo Ridge, the
Collection includes another wholly community-owned establishment in Thakadu River
Camp – follow the environmental models that have been applied throughout the reserve.
The story of Madikwe, like so many of South Africa’s game parks, is one of patient
and passionate implementation of conservation programmes. Through the decades-long
“Operation Phoenix”, the area was restored from over-grazed cattle farming terrain
to a self-sustaining wilderness area. Combining the twin appeals of being malaria-free
and offering Big Five game viewing, Madikwe is a highly prized destination for those
who can afford it.
Certainly, a stay there is not cheap. But patrons of Buffalo Ridge, Thakadu River
Camp and Tuningi Safari Lodge – which has also been certified by Fair Trade in Tourism
South African (FTTSA) – have the reassurance that the money they spend will have
a positive ripple effect in the local economy. And, in the case of the Balete of
Buffalo Ridge, that doesn’t mean only a few individuals; it means training and employment
for dozens of staff at the lodge and, equally importantly, it means the development
of infrastructure in Lekgophung and surrounds.
FTTSA stipulates that certified businesses meet the following criteria: fair wages
and working conditions; fair operations, purchasing and distribution of benefits;
ethical business practice; and respect for human rights, culture and the environment.
This all seems rather dry and dull – not the kind of thing one associates with the
excitement of game drives, the luxury of lazing by a pool overlooking pristine bushveld,
or the privilege of drinking and dining under starry skies.
Yet, as Buffalo Ridge has shown, it is possible for tourists to be self-indulgent
and to support community development at the same time.
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"Hello Moremi, Priscilla, Godfrey and the Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge family,
We want to thank all of you for the best days in our life. Your kindnesses and your
spirit cross the ocean and will be with us forever. Here from Colombia we remember
every day the view, the bush, the animals and of course all of you. You can count
us as a part of your family because all of you are part of ours. Best regards..."
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Claudia and Juan Jos
Colombia
April 2008
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"I cannot imagine any way you could have made our experience any better. The
service was warm and smiling, the food was great, the rooms were wonderful and the
excursions into the wild were spectacular. I’m going to tell everybody about the
dung beetle, the baby giraffe and the wild dogs. I miss this place already and I
haven’t even left. Special thanks to Godfrey for his good humour and interesting
information. He patiently answered all my stupid questions with charm. Ps. I agree
completely. This lodge was wonderful in every way."
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Bob and Nancy
Philadelphia, USA
27 February 2008
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"I have always dreamt about coming to Africa and experiencing the game park.
My experience here simply and truly exceeded all my expectations. Thank you greatly
to a wonderful and friendly staff who went out of their way to provide comfort in
every little thing. Thanks also goes to our skilful driver, Pule, who made our experience
a life memory."
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Tarek Toronto
Canada and Dubai, UAE
21 February 2008
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